Scarborough which county
It is to its attractions as a watering-place that Scarborough owes its modern development. The first cistern was built in , fn. Here were balls every evening, 'when the Room is illuminated like a Court Assembly and indeed, for the great number of Noble personages present, may very justly be called so.
The large hall then designed by Sir Joseph Paxton was burned down in , but in —8 new buildings were erected. The King of the Belgians stayed here in The Jesuit William Lacey — was son of a Scarborough tanner. He lived at the lower end of Merchants' Row. Edward Seager —83 , fn. Anne Bronte died at Scarborough, 28 May , fn. Mary's churchyard. Baker fn. The Quakers were numerous here in the reign of William and Mary, and then, as in , their meeting-house was a fashionable place of worship.
In Cardinal Wiseman opened the church of St. Peter in Castle Road, which is built in the 14th-century style and has an apsidal chancel. A second church on the South Cliff, Falsgrave, dedicated in honour of St. Edward the Confessor, was opened in The Congregational chapel in Eastborough was built in and enlarged in and fn. The Ebenezer Baptist chapel was founded in and rebuilt in , the Albemarle Baptist chapel dates from ; there are Primitive Methodist chapels in St.
Sepulchre Street opened in , enlarged in , and rebuilt in , Aberdeen Walk , St. The Wesleyans have had meetings here since ; their chapels are in Queen Street , Westborough , South Cliff and Falsgrave There are also a Unitarian chapel , meetinghouses of the Quakers and Plymouth Brethren, and Salvation Army barracks.
The Scarborough Municipal School, erected in , is now a secondary school under the Board of Education.
The first printing-office in Scarborough was established on 'Bland's cliff' in by Thomas Gent. William de Newburgh, writing at the end of the 12th century, ascribes the building of Scarborough Castle to William third Earl of Albemarle, called 'le Gros' —79 , fn. Henry II seized it, and, probably recognizing the importance of its position, completed the work.
King John, who stayed here on 3 February —1 and 12—13 February —16, fn. In spite of orders from Edward fn. Gaveston, however, being very short of provisions, surrendered on 19 May, receiving a bond of protection until the ensuing Parliament and a promise that if no agreement could be made he should be replaced in Scarborough Castle.
Gaveston was seized by the Earl of Warwick, under Lancaster's orders, and beheaded. He meditated greater mischief, but John Philipot, a citizen of London, equipped a fleet, recovered the ships and booty, and took fifteen Spanish ships besides.
Consultation with merchants from these parts and London fn. They were licensed to take what remedy they thought fit. With the exception of attacks from pirates Scarborough remained at peace from this time until the later years of the reign of Henry VIII. Richard III dated a precept from the castle on 5 July Eure told Cromwell in that part of the wall and its ground in the outer ward, between the gate-house and the castle, had been shot down lately.
It was stated that he had made part of the lead of the towers into a brewing vessel. In April Scarborough Castle was the centre of the rising of Thomas Stafford, whose followers held it for six days and then surrendered. Sir Henry Gate the constable wrote to the council about asking that the ordnance of the castle should be remounted and arms provided, as the place was 'very likely to be aimed at by the enemy,' and the 'affections of divers of the inhabitants' were unsettled.
During the reign of Charles I Scarborough suffered greatly from the men-of-war of Dunkirk, fn. Charles I, after his retreat from Hull to York in April , fn. Cholmley had represented Scarborough in the Short Parliament, and in November had refused to pay ship-money, but, though one of the commissioners appointed to treat with the king at York, he thought the Parliament's propositions 'most unjust and unreasonable.
On 25 March Sir Hugh announced his change of sides to his officers, letting the Parliamentarians depart.
He himself left for York, entrusting the castle to his kinsman James Cholmley. Two officers, Captain Bushell and his brother, persuaded the soldiers to seize the castle for the Parliament, 'which, tho' able to hold out against an army of 10, men, was thus twice taken in one week, without shedding one drop of blood.
Cholmley furnished him with a ship, but refused to leave unless compelled by force or royal command. Most of the gentry and many foot soldiers deserted, leaving Cholmley 'in a very sad condition, for the town by situation was not tenable, the castle ruinous, without habitation or provisions, or ammunition considerable,' and Fairfax with a large army was near. He accordingly opened negotiations for surrender, and thus gained time to put the castle in a state of defence which enabled him to hold out for twelve months.
Cholmley retreated to the castle, but Meldrum seized ships in the haven and cut off Cholmley's retreat by sea. In June the Committee of Both Kingdoms ordered fresh ammunition to be sent to Scarborough, where Newcastle had designed to land and raise Yorkshire. The coastwise colliers had taken refuge here and crowded as near the shore as possible, protected by nine men-of-war, guns on the pier-head and six guns elsewhere. The enemy sailed in, fired twenty guns and then stood off; the collier fleet proceeded under convoy.
Until the end of the Protectorate North Sea fishers and colliers frequently took refuge here, prizes were chased into the harbour, and Dunkirk prisoners lodged in the fortress. At the Restoration the town was described as populous, factious and needing a garrison. The castle, which it was suggested should be made the magazine for the North Riding and Durham, fn. Various political prisoners were kept here during the next few years, fn.
He was badly treated in other respects, but was discharged on 1 September The town continued to be of military importance, and was kept in a state of defence until the treaty of Nimeguen in On 23 September Paul Jones entered the bay, and beneath the walls of Scarborough Castle attacked and defeated two men-of-war which were acting as a convoy to a fleet of merchant vessels.
In five companies of Volunteers were raised for its defence. Scarborough Castle stands between the north and south bays on a rocky promontory, crowned by a triangular plateau about 19 acres in extent, and having its longest side towards the east, where the hill falls precipitously to the sea.
On the south-west, towards the harbour and town of Scarborough, the sides of the hill are less steep and are skirted at their base by a wide ditch; the north-west side, which has no ditch, resembles the east side in character, but is lower, and the sea does not reach to its base, as was the case on the east side before the formation of the present Marine Drive. The plateau was inclosed by a curtain wall, with towers and turrets placed at intervals, extending the whole length of the southwest side, and about half the length of the northwest side; the remainder of this and the whole of the eastern side are rendered sufficiently impregnable by the sea and the precipitous nature of the hill.
The keep stands within its bailey at the western or landward angle of the plateau, which is also its lowest and weakest point, and overlooks the narrow ridge which forms the only approach to the hill. Upon an outlying spur of this ridge is placed the barbican, which itself forms the first ward, and is connected by the bridge with a second ward without the curtain wall, adjoining the bailey on the west.
Within the enceinte to the north of the bailey, and entered from the north-east angle of the second ward, there appears to have been a third ward, which has completely disappeared, from the south side of which the bailey must have been entered. The outer ward occupies the whole of the remaining area of the plateau, and is divided from the bailey by a wall and ditch. Of the lord's hall and other buildings which stood within the bailey nothing now remains, the only surviving traces of the domestic portions of the castle being the foundations of a hall with a great chamber and offices at the southwest of the outer ward, excavated in , and the barracks built against the south-west wall near the middle of its length, which occupy the site, and probably incorporate parts of the structure of Mosdale Hall, or the King's Hall.
Mary's chapel, which also stood in the outer ward, has completely disappeared, but the site of the graveyard, as also of our Lady's well, which was situated close by, can be located. Much light is thrown on the original arrangements of the castle by a survey made in by Sir Marmaduke Constable and Sir Ralph Ellerker, fn. The materials of the whole of the works are limestone rubble, quarried from the castle rock, for the core of the walls, with sandstone for the facing and wrought work.
The latter stone was quarried both from the castle rock and from 'Whallesgrave' Falsgrave and Hayburn. The date of the keep is fixed by a series of payments entered on the Pipe Rolls from to Among other parts of the castle, mention is made of 'the hall within the inclosure of the tower,' which is described as being wholly uncovered and in a ruinous condition.
The battlements and alure of the castle wall towards the town needed great repair, and the flooring of three turrets in the enceinte of the castle walls was uncovered in several places, while the battlements and alure of the outer barbican were in great part thrown down and injured. The barbican in its present state probably dates in the main from the latter years of the 13th century.
The great bridge is known to have been rebuilt in —8, fn. The north-west wall of the ward between the bridge and the bailey must be almost entirely modern, as in the survey of , above referred to, this portion is said to have been 'in decay and fallen down,' and it is further stated that 'by estimacion of masons no wall can be sett agayne but if it be upon an arche or archis of stone'—an expedient found necessary in its modern rebuilding.
The southern wall of this ward, which leaves the bridge at an angle and joins without bond a turret of the curtain wall, may be that referred to in the following entry in an account of 'in the wages of ij masouns Wirking. The tower upon which the wall abuts commands a wide view to the north, west, and south, and is excellently adapted for the purposes of a watchtower.
The few moulded details brought to light when the foundations of the hall at the south-west of the outer ward were excavated show it to have been of the latter part of the 12th century. No mention is made of it in the survey of , but at what time it was pulled down is uncertain. An account roll for — 20 fn. This last hall was rebuilt by John Mosdale, the governor of the castle, at the end of the 14th century, and was converted into barracks in It is probable that the original external walls were made use of, though now refaced everywhere with brick, as the lower courses of the original masonry, both of the main structure and of the tower at the north-west, are visible on the outer side, and the core of the walls appears to be of stone wherever the internal plastering is removed.
The survey of gives the following description: 'The sayd Mosdale hall fn. The northern portion measures internally about 62 ft.
The ground stage of the tower at the north-west contains a small chamber, which, unlike the rest of the building, seems to have been left more or less in its original condition, save for the insertion of a sash-framed window. The southern portion, the walls of which are thinner, the outer wall being 6 ft.
It will be seen that with the exception of the breadth these measurements do not differ much from those of the survey, while the division into two parts is still distinct. The semicircular tower to the northward of Mosdale Hall was known as the 'Queen's Tower,' and adjoining it on the inside must have been the 'camera regine' to which important repairs amounting almost to a rebuilding were made in , fn.
There are frequent references in subsequent account rolls to repairs of various descriptions to both the Queen's tower and the Queen's chamber, and the tower is described in as having been at that time four stories in height, 6 yards in length, 5 yards in breadth and 12 yards in height.
The curtain wall on either side of the second of the two large mural towers to the south of Mosdale Hall appears to have been set back with the tower itself and the adjoining solid turret, as there is a marked inward bend to the south of the latter.
Possibly an explanation is to be found in an account roll for —9, fn. The southernmost tower of this wall, which stood upon the edge of the cliff, and was known variously as Cockefelde, Cockhyll, and later as Charles's tower, has also disappeared. Below the site of the latter is the South Steel battery, which was made in It is approached by a doorway in the curtain wall, opening on to a stepped path leading down the steep slope of the hill, and protected by a wall on the west side.
The barbican stands on a small hillock overlooking the steep approach from the town. The inclosure, the shape of which is governed by the nature of the ground, is roughly triangular, with the base towards the south, and measures about ft.
The gateway, flanked by large semicircular turrets, is placed at the east end of the south side, the lower level of the ground here allowing of a sufficient height to the wall and turrets without the necessity of carrying them above the general level of the top of the curtain wall, to the west, where the ground within the inclosure rises in places nearly to the level of the alure or rampart.
The north and east walls are mere parapets, the former being placed on the edge of a sharp descent. The walling generally, as elsewhere, is of limestone rubble for the core and a yellowish sandstone for the facing, much of which has been renewed.
The jambs of the entrance have been repaired in such a manner that no trace is left of the grooves in which the portcullis must have worked. In the turret to the west of the gateway was in the porter's lodge, of 'oon story heght covered wythe leade,' but this, like the other turret, is now only a shell.
In the wall over the outer arch is a square niche, and set in the south-east face of the wall of the western turret is a fine 15th-century shield of France and England, much decayed. There is a crowning string-course and plain parapet, probably of late date. The curtain wall to the west has two smaller semicircular turrets, one being placed at the south-west angle of the barbican, and the other midway between it and the gateway. Internally the alure, with steps leading to it behind the middle turret, can be distinctly traced.
The east wall is crowned by modern battlements. A doorway at the west end of the barbican, now blocked, was made in the 17th century to communicate with a battery which was formed at that period to the west of the barbican.
The bridge joins the barbican at its north-eastern angle, and is approached from the gateway by a sloping roadway sunk a few feet below the level of the surrounding ground. In its original state the bridge, which runs in a north-easterly direction, consisted of a massive central pier, crowned by a gate-house flanked by large semicircular turrets, with drawbridges on either side working between stone spandrel walls carried by segmental arches of two chamfered orders.
It was further protected by smaller turrets flanking the abutments towards the barbican and towards the second ward. The pier and abutments have deep chamfered plinths of three offsets, and the former has triangular starling-like terminations changing to a semi-octagonal form a little below the spring of the arches of the spandrel walls, above which originally rose the semicircular turrets of the gate-house, but only that on the south now remains.
The two turrets of the abutment on the outer or barbican side are carried in a similar manner; the abutment on the side towards the second ward has now only one turret remaining on the southern side, which is carried by a pointed arch thrown between the heads of a pair of buttresses of two offsets set at right angles to each other.
Both pits have been vaulted over between the spandrel walls to carry the present roadway, the arches on the barbican side having been wholly renewed, but the northern spandrel wall and arch of the pit on the side towards the second ward is still in its original condition, though a storehouse has been formed beneath, the wall of which now entirely conceals the southern arch.
The surviving turret of the gateway is filled with masonry, but part of a vice which must have led to an embattled walk over the gate still remains; the corbels which supported the projecting embattled parapet of the turret itself are also in position.
The gateway is described in the survey of in the following terms: 'wythyn ye same the bridge a turrit in lenght ix yardys and di. The whole work is faced with sandstone, and beneath the central pier on the north side is a mass of limestone rubble upon which it partly rests, probably a fragment of the bridge which it replaced.
The second ward originally included a triangular area measuring about ft. The east side was bounded by the western portion of the original curtain wall, but only the foundations of this remain, the second ward and the bailey being now thrown into one.
The roadway leading through the ward from the bridge to the site of the gate of the third ward at the north-east ascends sharply along the northern and lowest side of the neck of land on which the ward is placed, the wall here, as mentioned above, being almost entirely modern.
The south wall, which is carried along the edge of the higher side of the site, ascends steeply from the bridge to the curtain wall, where it abuts upon a solid turret probably the 'watch house' of the account roll which has lost its upper story. From this turret access was gained to the stepped alure of the wall, and so to the bridge and barbican, by a small doorway, the lower jamb stones of which can still be seen. In the eastern portion of the wall are five arrow slits, two of them perfect and splayed to allow of a downward aim.
Near the junction of the wall with the bridge is a blocked pointed opening, probably a postern. The masonry is of limestone rubble, and there is no bond between the wall and the turret, which is faced with sandstone ashlar and has a deep stepped and chamfered plinth.
The facing of the wall on the ward side seems to have fallen away in parts, and the western portion is supported by large modern buttresses. At the northeast angle of the ward was a gateway to the third ward, the walls of which have completely disappeared. This ward is described in the survey of in the following terms: 'Fyrst at th' entre of the thyrde warde is neyther tower ne house but a payre of evyll tymbre gatis of xiij fote heght and x fote brode, and a place for a port-cules.
At the south-east appears to have been a gate to the outer ward, traces of the south jamb of which are still left. The line of the wall dividing the ward from the bailey can be traced for a few feet from this point, but nothing remains to show the position of the gate to the bailey, which was probably near the east end of this wall.
Against the curtain wall, which forms the west side of the ward, are 18th-century buildings and offices, and at the north end, on the outer face, are some original buttresses. The bailey is of irregular shape, and measures about ft. The keep, which stands at the northwest, close upon the probable lines of the north and west walls, is a square building, each side measuring externally about 55 ft. Contact us.
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